African violets (Saintpaulia) bloom almost year round when they get bright, indirect light for most of the day, room temperature water applied to the soil or from below while the leaves stay dry, a light, airy mix in a small pot, and steady, diluted feeding. Water when the top of the mix feels just dry to the touch, keep the room between about 65 and 80°F, and aim for moderate humidity. When an African violet stops blooming, too little light is the most common reason. The ASPCA lists African violet as non-toxic to dogs and cats.
Light
African violets need more light than many people expect. An east window is ideal, and a bright north window can work. A south or west window is fine if a sheer curtain softens the direct sun, since direct afternoon sun bleaches and burns the leaves. Signs of too little light are long leaf stems, leaves reaching upward, deep green color, and few or no flowers. Signs of too much are pale, yellowish, tightly bunched leaves in the center.
African violets also grow very well under lights. Place a grow light about 12 inches above the leaves for 12 to 14 hours a day, and give the plant at least eight hours of darkness each night, which it needs to set buds. Turn the pot a quarter turn each week so the rosette stays even.
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Use room temperature water. Cold water splashed on the leaves leaves pale rings and spots that do not go away. Water when the surface of the mix feels just dry, which in most homes is every few days to once a week. Two methods work well:
- From below: set the pot in a saucer of water for about 20 to 30 minutes, then pour off whatever has not been absorbed.
- From above: use a narrow spout to water the soil under the leaves, not the crown or the foliage, until a little drains out.
Never leave the pot standing in water for hours, and do not let the mix go bone dry until the leaves droop. Overwatering is the main cause of crown rot, where the center of the plant turns soft and dark. Self watering pots made for violets, which wick water up from a reservoir, keep moisture steady and are a good fit if you tend to forget.
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A self watering planter that keeps water off the leaves, a clip on grow light for rooms without a bright window, and a thermometer with a hygrometer to confirm the room stays warm and humid enough. We may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.
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Soil and pots
African violets need a loose, very well drained mix that still holds some moisture. A commercial violet mix works, or blend a general indoor potting mix with extra perlite. Heavy, dense soil stays wet and smothers the fine roots.
Keep the pot small. A good rule is a pot about one third the width of the leaf spread, and most standard plants are happy in a 4 to 5 inch pot for years. A pot that is too large stays wet and delays blooming. Refresh the mix once or twice a year, keeping the same pot size and trimming away some of the old root ball if needed.
Temperature and humidity
Room temperatures of about 65 to 80°F keep African violets growing and flowering. Below about 60°F, growth stops and leaves can be damaged, so keep them away from cold windows and drafts. They like humidity around 50 percent. In dry heated rooms, a pebble tray or grouping plants together helps. Avoid misting, since water left sitting on the fuzzy leaves causes spots and invites disease. Our guide to humidity trays and grouping houseplants shows how to set one up.
Feeding for steady blooms
African violets bloom best with light, regular feeding. Use a balanced liquid fertilizer, or one made for blooming plants, diluted to about a quarter strength at most waterings, or half strength every two to four weeks. Flush the pot with plain water once a month to clear built up salts, which show as a white crust on the rim and can burn the leaf stems.
Grooming and suckers
Pinch off spent flowers and their stems so the plant puts its energy into new buds. Remove damaged or yellowing outer leaves by snapping them off at the base. Watch for suckers, small new rosettes that form between the leaves or at the base. A standard African violet should have a single crown, and suckers crowd the plant and reduce blooming. Remove them with a small tool or pencil tip, and root them in moist mix if you want more plants. A healthy leaf with an inch of stem also roots in moist mix and forms baby plants in a few weeks.
Why an African violet will not bloom
- Not enough light: the most common cause. Move it closer to a bright window or add a grow light, and keep at least eight hours of darkness.
- Pot too big: the plant fills the pot with roots before it blooms.
- Suckers or several crowns: divide the plant so each crown has its own pot.
- No feeding or too much: feed lightly and regularly, and flush salts monthly.
- Too cold or too dry: keep the room above 65°F and raise humidity.
Common problems
- Pale rings or spots on leaves: cold water on the foliage. Use room temperature water and water at the soil.
- Soft, dark center: crown rot from overwatering. Let the mix dry slightly between waterings, and see our guide to root rot in houseplants.
- White powder on leaves or flowers: powdery mildew. Improve air flow and remove affected parts.
- Tiny insects or deformed buds: check for thrips or mealybugs. Our guide to thrips on houseplants explains how to spot them.
Pet safety
The ASPCA lists African violet as non-toxic to dogs and cats, so it is a good flowering plant for homes with pets. Any plant can still cause a mild upset stomach if a pet eats a lot of it. If a pet eats a plant you cannot identify, call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435. If a child eats part of a houseplant, call Poison Control at 1-800-222-1222.
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Perlite to lighten a potting mix so it drains well, a liquid fertilizer you can dilute for steady feeding, and a narrow spout watering can that waters the soil without wetting the leaves. We may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.
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Bottom line
Give African violets bright, indirect light or a grow light, room temperature water at the soil or from below, a light mix in a small pot, and diluted feeding on a steady schedule. Keep the leaves dry, remove spent flowers and suckers, and look to light first whenever blooming stops.
Related reading
- Self watering pots for houseplants
- Hoya care: light, water, and blooms
- Kalanchoe care and reblooming
- Humidity trays and grouping for houseplants
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