Most philodendrons grow best in bright, indirect light, in a loose, well draining indoor potting mix in a pot with a drainage hole, with water whenever the top inch or two of mix feels dry. Keep them in a room between about 65 and 80°F, away from cold drafts, and feed lightly while they are putting out new leaves. Yellow leaves almost always point to soil that stays wet too long, and long, bare vines with small leaves point to too little light. The ASPCA lists philodendron as toxic to dogs and cats, so place it where pets cannot chew it.
Vining and upright types
Philodendrons come in two broad growth habits, and care is nearly the same for both. Vining types, such as the common heartleaf philodendron (Philodendron hederaceum), send out long stems that trail from a shelf or climb a support. Upright, self heading types grow from a central stem and spread outward, with leaves that get larger as the plant matures. Both want the same light, water, and soil. The main difference is how you shape them: vining types need trimming or training, while upright types mostly need room and an occasional turn so they grow evenly.
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Bright, indirect light gives the fastest growth, the largest leaves, and the best color on variegated and colored leaf types. A spot a few feet from an east or west window, or near a bright north window, works well. Hot direct sun through a south or west window can bleach or scorch the leaves. Philodendrons tolerate lower light better than many houseplants, but in a dim corner they grow slowly, new leaves come in smaller, and the gaps between leaves on vining stems get longer. If a vine looks stretched and sparse, more light is the fix.
Watering
Water thoroughly until water runs out of the drainage hole, then let the top inch or two of mix dry before watering again. In a warm, bright room that is often every week or so. In cooler rooms and during the short days of the year, it may be every two weeks. Empty the saucer after watering so the pot never sits in water. Push a finger into the mix rather than watering on a fixed schedule, because pot size, light, and room temperature all change how fast it dries.
A drooping philodendron can mean either too dry or too wet. If the mix is dry and the leaves perk up within a few hours of watering, it was thirsty. If the mix is wet and the leaves still droop, the roots may be suffering, and our guide to root rot in houseplants explains how to check and trim them.
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A general indoor potting mix, pots with drainage holes so roots never sit in water, and perlite to loosen a mix that stays wet too long. We may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.
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Why philodendron leaves turn yellow
- Too much water. The most common cause. Several yellow leaves at once, often with soft stems or soggy mix, mean the roots are staying wet. Let the mix dry more between waterings and check that the pot drains.
- Old leaves aging out. One older leaf near the base turning yellow now and then is normal as the plant puts its energy into new growth.
- Too little light. Pale leaves and slow growth on a plant far from a window.
- Cold. Drafts from doors, windows, or air conditioning vents can yellow and spot the leaves.
- Hungry plant. Overall pale new growth on a plant that has not been fed in a long time.
Remove fully yellow leaves at the stem. They will not turn green again. Our guide to yellow leaves on houseplants walks through more causes.
Soil, pots, and repotting
A general indoor potting mix works, and adding a handful or two of perlite keeps it loose and quick to drain. Philodendrons like to be slightly snug, so move up only one pot size when roots circle the bottom, push out of the drainage hole, or the mix dries out in a day or two. Repot when the plant is actively growing, water it well afterward, and give it a week or two out of strong light to settle.
Climbing, trimming, and fixing leggy vines
Vining philodendrons can trail from a shelf or hanging pot, or climb. When a vine climbs a support, its new leaves often grow larger. Tie the stem loosely to a coir or moss covered pole so the small aerial roots at each node can grip it, and keep the pole slightly damp if you want the roots to attach.
To fix a long, bare vine, cut it back just above a leaf node. New growth usually starts from one or more nodes below the cut, making the plant fuller. Trimming at the same time you improve the light gives the best result. For trailing ideas, see our guide to trailing plants for shelves and mantels.
Rooting cuttings
Philodendron cuttings root easily. Cut a piece of vine with at least one or two nodes, the small bumps where leaves and aerial roots grow, and remove the lowest leaf. Set the cutting in a glass of water with the node submerged, or in damp potting mix, and keep it in bright, indirect light. Roots usually form within a few weeks. Plant water rooted cuttings in mix once the roots are an inch or two long, and pot several together for a fuller look. Our guide to propagating houseplants from cuttings covers both methods in detail.
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A coir support pole for vines you want to train upward, a liquid fertilizer you can dilute to half strength, and a small propagation station for rooting cuttings in water. We may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.
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Temperature, humidity, and feeding
Normal room temperatures suit philodendrons. Keep them above about 55°F and away from cold glass, drafty doors, and blasting heat vents. Average household humidity is usually fine, but very dry indoor air can cause brown edges, and grouping plants together helps. Feed with a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer at half strength about once a month while the plant is growing, and skip feeding when growth slows in cool, dim months.
Common pests
Check the undersides of leaves and the stems now and then for mealybugs, which look like small bits of white cotton, and for the fine webbing of spider mites in dry rooms. Wipe the leaves with a damp cloth every few weeks to remove dust and spot problems early. Our guide to spider mites on houseplants explains how to treat them.
Pet safety
The ASPCA lists philodendron as toxic to dogs and cats. The leaves and stems contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals that can cause mouth irritation, drooling, pawing at the mouth, and vomiting if chewed. Keep philodendrons on high shelves or in rooms pets cannot reach. If a pet chews a plant, call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435. If a child eats part of a houseplant, call Poison Control at 1-800-222-1222.
Bottom line
Give a philodendron bright, indirect light, a loose mix in a pot with drainage, and water when the top inch or two is dry. Look to watering first when leaves turn yellow, look to light first when vines get leggy, and trim and root the cuttings to keep the plant full.
Related reading
- Pothos care: light, water, and leggy vines
- Monstera care: light, water, and support
- When to repot houseplants
- Fungus gnats in houseplants
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