Repot most houseplants in spring or early summer, when they are actively growing and recover quickly, and only when roots have filled the pot. In the short, dim days of winter, wait unless there is a real problem: root rot, a cracked pot, soil infested with pests, or a plant so top-heavy it keeps tipping over. When you do repot, move up just 1 to 2 inches in pot diameter and always use a pot with a drainage hole.
Signs a plant needs a bigger pot
- Roots growing out of the drainage hole or circling the surface
- Water runs straight through and the soil dries within a day or two
- The plant tips over because the top outweighs the pot
- Growth has stalled during the growing season despite good light and feeding
- Old potting mix has broken down into a dense, sour-smelling mass
A plant that simply looks tired in winter usually needs better light, not a new pot. Our guide to grow light basics for winter houseplants covers that.
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Find My Plants →Why winter repotting is risky
Repotting disturbs roots. In spring, a plant replaces damaged roots fast. In winter, low light slows growth, so the plant sits in a larger volume of wet soil it cannot use, and that is how root rot starts. Many houseplant problems in January trace back to an oversized pot filled in December.
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Good reasons to repot now
| Situation | What to do |
|---|---|
| Root rot (mushy, dark, smelly roots) | Remove rotted roots, repot into fresh mix in a pot the same size or smaller |
| Pot broken or cracked | Move to the same size pot |
| Fungus gnats or soil pests | Replace the top layer or all of the mix; see fungus gnat control |
| New plant in a pot with no drainage | Slip it into a nursery pot with holes, same size |
| Severely rootbound and drying daily | Go up one size only |
How to repot without setbacks
- Water the day before so the root ball slides out intact.
- Choose a pot 1 to 2 inches wider than the current one, with a drainage hole. Skip gravel in the bottom; it does not improve drainage.
- Use fresh mix suited to the plant. A general indoor potting mix works for most foliage plants; succulents and cacti want a gritty mix, and epiphytes such as orchids want a bark mix.
- Loosen circling roots gently with your fingers and trim any that are dead or mushy with clean scissors.
- Set the plant at the same depth it grew before. Burying the stem invites rot.
- Fill around the sides, firm lightly, and water until it drains from the bottom.
- Give it bright, indirect light and skip fertilizer for about four to six weeks while roots settle.
Wash your hands after handling plants and soil, and wear gloves with plants that have irritating sap, such as euphorbias. Keep pots and fresh mix away from pets, since some houseplants are toxic if chewed; check each plant before leaving it within reach.
Picking the pot material
Plastic and glazed ceramic pots hold moisture longer, which suits thirsty foliage plants and busy owners. Unglazed terracotta breathes and dries faster, which suits succulents, cacti, and anyone who tends to overwater. Decorative pots without holes can still be used as an outer cover: keep the plant in a plastic nursery pot inside, and tip out any water that collects after each watering. Whatever you choose, the inner pot should be only slightly larger than the root ball.
Plants that like being snug
Some plants bloom or grow better slightly rootbound and need repotting only every few years: clivia, peace lily, snake plant, spider plant, hoya, and many succulents. Our guide to clivia bloom care explains why a tight pot helps it flower.
Bottom line
Repot in spring when roots fill the pot, go up only 1 to 2 inches, and use a pot with drainage. In winter, repot only to fix rot, pests, or a broken pot, and use the same size pot. For year-round watering habits, read soil moisture meters for houseplants in winter.
Related reading
- Potting benches and potting stations
- Rolling plant caddies for heavy pots
- Bringing houseplants indoors without pests
- Humidifiers for houseplants in winter
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