Monstera Care: Light, Watering, and Support for Big Split Leaves

Monstera deliciosa grows best in bright, indirect light, in a chunky, fast draining mix, watered when the top 2 inches are dry, with a pole or stake to climb. The famous split and holed leaves come with maturity and good light: a young plant or one in a dim corner puts out smaller, solid leaves, while a plant that climbs in bright light produces larger leaves with deep splits. Yellowing leaves usually mean too much water. Monstera is toxic to cats and dogs if chewed, so place it where pets cannot reach it.

Light

In the wild, monstera climbs tree trunks toward bright, filtered light. Indoors, aim for a spot near an east or west window, or a few feet back from a south window, where it gets lots of light but little harsh direct afternoon sun. A few hours of gentle morning sun helps. If the leaf stems stretch long and lean hard toward the window, or new leaves come in without splits, the plant needs more light. A grow light on a timer can fill in for a dim room.

Watering and humidity

Water when the top 2 inches of mix are dry, soaking until water runs out the bottom, then empty the saucer. That might be weekly in bright, warm months and every two to three weeks when days are short. Monstera tolerates average household humidity, but very dry heated air can cause brown, crispy leaf edges. Grouping plants or running a humidifier nearby helps. Keep it away from cold drafts and heat vents, and protect it from temperatures below about 55°F.

Support: why monstera needs something to climb

Monstera is a climbing vine. Without support it sprawls sideways and the leaves stay smaller. A coir or wooden pole pushed into the pot at repotting time gives the stem something to lean on. Tie the main stem loosely to the pole with soft plant ties, and guide the long aerial roots toward the pole or into the mix. Never cut off all the aerial roots; they help anchor and feed the plant. Trim only ones that are in the way.

As the plant climbs, newer leaves grow larger and develop more splits, called fenestrations.

Potting mix and repotting

Monstera roots want air. Use a chunky aroid mix, or blend standard potting mix with orchid bark and perlite. Choose a pot with drainage holes. Repot every one to two years, or when roots circle the pot, moving up only 2 inches in diameter. Repotting is best done when the plant is actively growing, in the longer days of the year.

Feeding

Feed with a balanced liquid fertilizer at half strength every four weeks while the plant is putting out new leaves. Skip feeding when growth slows in the darker months.

Common problems

• Yellow lower leaves with damp mix: overwatering. Let it dry further between drinks and check that the pot drains.
• No splits on new leaves: too little light or a young plant. Increase light and add support.
• Brown, crispy edges: dry air or the mix dried out completely.
• Drooping leaves: usually thirst. Water thoroughly and they should firm up within a day.
• Pests: check under leaves and along stems for spider mites, mealybugs, and thrips.

Safety: monstera and pets

The ASPCA lists monstera, also sold as split leaf philodendron, as toxic to cats and dogs. Its leaves and stems contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals that irritate the mouth and can cause drooling, pawing, and vomiting. Wear gloves when pruning, since the sap can irritate skin. If a pet chews this plant, call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435. For a child, call Poison Control at 1-800-222-1222.

Bottom line

Bright, indirect light, a chunky mix, water when the top 2 inches dry, and a pole to climb. That combination gives you big leaves with the splits monstera is known for.

Related reading

• Houseplants for bright, sunny rooms
• Humidifiers for houseplants in winter
• Grow light basics for winter houseplants
• Toxic plants for cats: the complete list

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