Folding Pruning Saws for Branches Too Thick for Loppers

A folding pruning saw is the right tool for live or dead branches from about 1 to 4 inches thick, the range where loppers start to crush or stall and a chainsaw is more tool than the job needs. For most yards, pick a 7 to 10 inch pull-stroke blade with a curved profile and a locking hinge. Use it with the three-cut method on larger limbs so the bark does not tear, and leave anything high overhead or near power lines to a professional.

Where a pruning saw fits in your tool kit

Pull-stroke saws cut when you draw the blade toward you, which keeps the thin blade from buckling and lets you work with less force. A curved blade bites into round limbs faster. Straight blades are easier to control on flat cuts close to the trunk.

Safety for hand-saw pruning

A pruning saw is a hand tool, but its teeth are very sharp and it is easy to slip.

• Wear sturdy gloves, especially on the hand that is not holding the saw, and safety glasses to keep sawdust and bark out of your eyes.
• Keep your free hand well away from the cut line and never brace a limb against your leg.
• Always lock the blade open before cutting and fold it closed before you walk.
• Stand on firm ground. Do not saw from the top of a ladder or overreach; if the cut is above shoulder height, switch to a pole saw.
• Look up before every cut and plan where the branch will fall. Never cut near power lines.

The three-cut method for clean limbs

Branches heavier than about 2 inches can tear bark down the trunk if cut in one pass.

1. Undercut. About 12 inches out from the trunk, saw upward from the bottom of the branch about one third of the way through.
2. Top cut. An inch or two farther out, saw down from the top until the branch drops. The undercut stops the bark from peeling.
3. Final cut. Remove the remaining stub just outside the branch collar, the slightly swollen ring where branch meets trunk. Do not cut flush with the trunk and do not leave a long stub.

Skip wound paint. Most trees seal a clean cut faster on their own.

Timing

Dead, broken, or crossing branches can come off whenever you notice them. For live structural pruning, late winter while trees are dormant is usually best because you can see the branch structure and the tree will close wounds quickly in spring. Some shrubs set next year's flower buds in late summer, so cutting them at the wrong time removes blooms; see our list of shrubs not to prune in fall.

Choosing the saw

• Blade length: 7 to 8 inches for shrubs and tight spaces; 10 inches for small trees.
• Tooth style: fine teeth leave smoother cuts on live wood; coarse teeth move faster through dead wood.
• Hinge and lock: look for a lock that holds the blade open firmly and also locks it closed.
• Replaceable blades: hardened teeth are hard to sharpen at home, so replacement blades keep the saw cutting well.

Care

Wipe sap off with a cloth and a little rubbing alcohol after each session, dry the blade, and add a light coat of oil before storage. Clean the blade between plants when you are removing diseased wood. For the rest of your hand tools, see our guide to cleaning and sharpening garden tools.

Bottom line

Choose a 7 to 10 inch folding pull saw with a locking hinge for branches thicker than your loppers can handle. Use the three-cut method on heavier limbs, cut just outside the collar, keep your free hand clear, and call an arborist for anything high, heavy, or near lines. For storm cleanup beyond hand-saw size, read our chainsaw safety gear guide first.

Related reading

• Bypass pruning shears
• Anvil loppers for pruning
• Pole saws for tree limbs

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