A 4-foot plastic snow fence placed roughly 10 to 15 times its height upwind of a driveway (about 40 to 60 feet away) slows blowing snow so it drops in a drift behind the fence instead of across your drive. Run the fence at a right angle to the prevailing winter wind, leave a gap of a few inches at the bottom, and set the posts before the ground freezes.
How a snow fence works
Wind carries snow along the ground. When the wind hits a porous fence, it slows down on the downwind side and drops its load. The drift forms behind the fence, not in front of it, and stretches a surprising distance. That is why a fence placed right at the edge of the driveway makes things worse: the drift lands in the drive.
Standard orange or black plastic snow fence has about 50 percent open area, which is close to ideal. A solid fence creates a short, deep drift right behind it and can cause scouring at the ends.
| Fence height | Typical drift length behind it | Suggested distance from the area to protect |
|---|---|---|
| 4 feet | 40 to 60 feet in typical storms | 40 to 60 feet upwind |
| 6 feet | 60 to 90 feet | 60 to 90 feet upwind |
In very open, windy country, drifts can extend much farther, so give the fence more room if you have it. Highway departments space fences 20 to 35 times the height for that reason.
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Find My Plants →Finding the right spot
Watch where drifts formed last winter, or stand outside during the first windy snow and note the direction. The fence should cross that wind path at a right angle and extend 25 to 50 feet past each end of the area you are protecting, because wind curls around the ends.
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Installing the fence
- Call 811 first. Utility lines are often buried along driveways and property lines. The service is free and marks lines within a few days.
- Set steel T-posts every 6 to 8 feet. Drive them 18 to 24 inches deep so they hold against wind and snow load. Do it before the ground freezes.
- Leave a gap of 4 to 6 inches at the bottom. The gap keeps the fence from burying itself early in the season.
- Attach the fence on the upwind side of the posts with T-post clips or heavy UV-resistant zip ties at the top, middle, and bottom.
- Pull it tight between posts. Sagging fence flaps, tears, and catches less snow.
Safety
- Wear gloves, eye protection, and hearing protection when using a post driver. Keep your hands off the top of the post while driving.
- A post driver is heavy. Lift it straight up and let its weight do the work rather than swinging hard.
- Mark the fence with reflectors if it is near where people walk at night or near a road.
- Keep fences well back from public roads unless you have permission; road crews need clear space for plowing.
Protecting the lawn
Snow fence sitting on turf all winter is usually fine, but take it down in early spring once drifts melt. Left up into the growing season, it shades and flattens the grass. Pair the fence with driveway markers that protect lawn edges from plows, and keep heavy drifts off shrubs with our guide to burlap wind screens for evergreens.
Living snow fences
Over the long term, a row of dense shrubs or evergreens planted upwind works as a permanent snow fence and windbreak. Plant it the same distance upwind as a plastic fence and allow several years for it to fill in.
Bottom line
Set a 4-foot fence about 40 to 60 feet upwind, at a right angle to the wind, with a small gap at the bottom and posts driven before freeze-up. For what does reach the driveway, see our guide to ergonomic snow shovels and snow blower prep before the first snow.
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