Tying Up Arborvitae and Upright Evergreens for Snow

To keep heavy snow and ice from splaying or splitting upright evergreens, tie multi-stemmed arborvitae, upright junipers, and similar columnar shrubs in late fall, before the first heavy snow. Start at the base, tie off soft strapping or wide garden twine to a sturdy lower stem, then spiral it upward around the plant, snug but not tight, and tie it off near the top. Remove the ties in early spring.

Columnar evergreens often have several leaders that spread apart under wet snow. Once a stem splits from the main trunk, it rarely closes back up, and the shrub can be permanently misshapen. A ten-minute tie-up prevents most of that damage.

Why upright evergreens split

1. Multiple leaders. Many arborvitae grow several vertical stems with weak unions where they meet.
2. Wet snow is heavy. A single storm of wet snow or freezing rain can put serious weight on dense foliage.
3. Splits do not heal. A torn union stays open, invites decay, and leaves a gap in a hedge.
4. Young plants flex the most. Shrubs planted in the last few years have not built strong stems yet.

Checklist

• Tie up after deciduous leaves have fallen and before the first heavy snow forecast.
• Use soft, wide material: arbor tie, tree strapping, or cotton or jute twine; never wire.
• Anchor at the base, then spiral upward around the shrub with about a foot between wraps.
• Keep ties snug enough to hold stems together but loose enough to avoid crushing foliage.
• Gently brush off heavy snow with a broom after storms, pushing upward, not down.
• Never shake ice-coated branches; let ice melt off naturally.
• Remove all ties in early spring so they do not girdle growing stems.

Which shrubs benefit most?

Columnar and multi-leader evergreens get the most benefit. Emerald Green and other narrow arborvitae, upright junipers, Skyrocket junipers, and fastigiate yews are the most common. Rounded shrubs like boxwood and spreading yews rarely need tying, though a burlap wind screen helps them in exposed sites; see our burlap wind screen guide.

What if a stem already split?

For a small split, you can pull the stem back into place and tie it, and sometimes a strap and time will help it hold in position. For a large split at the base or a broken leader, prune it back cleanly to a healthy stem or the trunk. Use sharp bypass pruners or loppers for small stems, keep both hands clear of the cutting path, wear gloves and eye protection, and work from the ground. For stems thicker than your wrist, tall shrubs that need a ladder, or anything near power lines, hire an ISA certified arborist. Never use a chainsaw or pole saw on a ladder.

Should you wrap the whole shrub in burlap?

Burlap wrapping helps against winter burn and salt spray but does not stop snow weight on its own. If you wrap, tie first, then wrap loosely and leave the top open. Our burlap winter wrap guide covers that method.

Watering before freeze

Evergreens lose moisture all winter through their foliage. Water arborvitae deeply in fall until the ground freezes, especially plants set out in the last two years. A layer of mulch over the root zone holds that moisture and buffers temperature swings.

Zone and timing notes

Zones 3 to 5 should tie up by late October, since early wet snow is common. Zones 6 and 7 usually have until mid November and should prioritize tie-ups in areas prone to ice storms. Zone 8 rarely needs it except during unusual ice events. Higher elevations and lake-effect areas should tie up earlier regardless of zone.

Bottom line

Spiral soft ties up multi-leader arborvitae and upright evergreens in late fall, brush snow off gently after storms, and remove the ties in spring. Prune small splits cleanly with sharp hand tools from the ground, and call an arborist for anything large or high. A few minutes per shrub keeps a hedge whole through winter.

Related reading

• Burlap wind screens for evergreens
• Burlap winter wrap for shrubs
• Shrubs not to prune in fall
• Evergreen deer-resistant shrubs Zone 5

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